Much like ginseng, sea horses are often used as an aphrodisiac, and to reinforce the kidneys’ yang. As the Guangxi saying goes:

“Eating sea horses makes an 80-year-old granddaddy young.”

“常吃海马，八十公公老来少。”(cháng chī hǎi mǎ ，bā shí gōng gong lǎo lái shǎo 。)

One legendary fan of the strange equine fish was Emperor Tangminghuang, one of the most popular emperors of China. He ruled from 712 to 756, and drank sea horse-infused liquor in his later years. This was hundreds of years ago, but the fish remains a bestselling tonic. Professor Lu Yannian, of the Chinese Old Age Research Group, suggests middle-aged couples use it regularly to enhance their private lives.

One contemporary enhancer is Neil Zhong, who buys his sea horses in Hong Kong to consume in the UK. He soaks them in 500ml of top-shelf whiskey, and drinks a small cup every night after dinner. While his passport reveals he’s 50 years old, he looks and acts much younger.

“Exercise and sea horse wine are my secrets,” he laughs.

Unwilling to waste even a bit, Zhong chews up the sea horse after emptying a bottle. It’s salty, and has the consistency of squid, but the fish also costs up to 5,000 RMB a kilo.

Others will cook it into a soup with pork and dates, or stew it with pig’s kidneys. You can also take it as a powder or in capsule form.

And yet, be forewarned that sea horses are a slow cure. Dr. Tang Shulan, who does recommend them as a remedy, says, “This isn’t Viagra. It’s a tonic. You have to take it regularly, and don’t expect to see effects in a short time.”

Dr. Bai Xiaofeng bought four, ate them, and saw no effect at all. “Rich people can afford more,” he said, “but I can’t.”

Sea horses are not only expensive, they’re also at risk: it’s reported that 20 million a year are sold for TCM purposes alone. They’re protected in China and only legal when farmed—not when caught in the wild. So before you go on a sea horse binge, stop and think about it.